Leblon 360˚

Praia Leblon, Rio de Janeiro

I have been sick for the last two weeks. It's an odd cold-allergy. The good, it hasn't gotten worse. The bad, it doesn't go away. Regardless, I made myself go to the beach. I lathered the sunblock and headed out to Leblon Beach. I like Leblon Beach because I find it more relaxing. Once I arrived I read one of my new books and most importantly, I just took everything in.

Beach culture here is so different than beach culture in South Florida. Here you feel comfortable. Your body type does not matter. Women and men of all sizes wear their bikinis and sungas, respectively, and look as if they're at home. Which they are, after all, that's what the beach is for.

Before I left the beach I made sure I took a 360˚short video shot with my camera. I'm not sure when I'll be returning. Hopefully soon. The video briefly illustrates people walking, taking some sun, playing volleyball, and exercising. There is a nice Shopping about two blocks in, from Rua Atlantica. It's a high-end mall with stores such as Armani and Chanel. These stores you will not find in Botafogo's Shopping.

The PUC entrance

I have to be honest, I have not explored PUC's campus. Apparently there is a satellite campus as well. Nevertheless, the images below are from the one of the two entrances. I use this entrance the most because the bus I usually take, #410, stops right in front of the university. PUC happens to be a rest stop for the bus drivers and cobradores. You will usually see them doing some light stretching, by standing and walking before they head back to Rio de Janeiro's Centro. I can see why they take a break. The drive back to the city's Centro is relatively long. What makes the trip long is the constant stopping. Once it reaches the Centro, the bus driveres stop for another break.

If you're out on the street and are waiting for a bus, even if you're standing at a marked bus stop, you have to flag down the bus. If you don't, the bus will not stop. There are many bus routes that will help you reach your destination but you must be aware and quick. Nevertheless, wait time is not bad. What is bad is the city's traffic, it is always congested no matter what time of the day. So make sure you time-in possible traffic delays when planing your day's activities.

PUC bus stop area

If you're in need  of a snack, there are many stands outside PUC's bus entrance.

I love this lady's sign:

FIADO SÓ AMANHÃ

Less than a week

A tuxedo Carioca cat.

A neighbor's cat greets me every morning. At least I believe the cat belongs to someone. It is always hanging out in the center patio that these homes share. The first day I opened the door on my way to PUC the cat was waiting for me. It was ready to sneak into my host mother's home. I slammed the door worried about it actually entering the house. I didn't even get to step my foot outside the door. I imagined myself chasing after a cat inside my host home and having to wake up and tell my host mother and sister about the situation. It was very early, I was running a couple of minutes late. After I counted to five, I opened the door again. The cat had not moved.  I nudged myself out and the cat began to follow me until it sadly realized I was not going to feed or pet him. Sometimes it waits for me when I return. It never runs away, it just sits there and meows.

Livraria - Sebo... I bought several old books here.

Yesterday I went to two book stores. One happened to be a second hand book store. These stores are located very close to each other and you can find them in Botafogo. There's other locations throughout Zona Sul. If you're into books, please try to go to book stores. I of course purchased new books and old books. I had to control myself, my suitcase does not have much space and I also have to be mindful of weight restrictions from my flight carrier.

Sometime last week on my way home I walked into a little shop, Mutações, that sells artsy and handmade products. It is located near o Cobal do Humaitá on Rua São Clemente. The shop is long and has a small cafe tucked in the back. It is very cozy. The products were on the expensive side but taking pictures is always the next best option.

Neat hangers at Mutações. This is a worthwhile project I will attempt with the endless amount of wire hangers I own.

Francisco the bikini man

About a week and a half ago I walked to Leblon Beach from PUC. When I arrived I sat on the steps and took in the vista. The beach was empty. Mostly. The weather cloudy and chilly. However, there were still some vendors out and ready to sell their products to those who ventured to the beach, regardless of weather.

I spotted a man with some umbrella contraption that effectively holds bikinis and attracts potential customers. The tiny bathing suit outfits hang from a string that outlines the umbrella. I was not sure if I should approach him. I waited, sat and observed everyone and everything. Soon a lady approached the bikini man. She grabbed a set and was gesturing for the price. I figured this was the best opportunity to approach the vendor. Not to help the tourist out, but to listen for the price. He sold her the bikini for R$50,00.  Somehow I new this was a bit hefty.

He briefly walked away to another vendor, he needed change for her. His customer happened to be from Miami. She was on a business trip and was heading back home the following day. Her and her partner are opening an equity office here in Rio de Janeiro. I found this out soon after my purchase when she asked if I had done well.

When she walked away with her new purchase I realized it was my turn. I wanted a black bathing suit but the vendor insisted on handing me bright colors. He said they would look good with my skin. I kept saying they were a bit too much for me. Finally, I selected a white set which he priced for R$50,00. I said R$35,00 and he said no. We agreed on R$40,00.

I ended paying R$30,00. I thought I had more money on me. I didn't. I had exactly R$30,00 for a small dinner snack and my bus ride home. I told Francisco, we soon exchanged names, that I would just have to return another day. He insisted I buy the bikini by shoving it into my arms. I insisted I didn't have enough money and would hand back the bikini. At one point he told me to just come back tomorrow and give him the difference owed. I looked at him and replied in a very honest manner that I couldn't guarantee that I would come back with the ten reais difference. I told him that I would return later during the week. He didn't like the option. He told me to take the bikini for R$30,00. He needed to sell.

Here I was with a bikini and no bus fare.

Finding an ATM became priority number one. I finally found a Citibank ATM in Ipanema. I have found that using an ATM makes more sense than going to a Casa de Câmbio with wads of cash. You pay a fee regardless.

  (If you squint your eyes just so, on the left side, there is a shadow of an umbrella with the Brazilian bikinis.)

P.S. Update, my last day in Brazil I returned to Leblon Beach and directly went to Francisco. I bought more bikinis from him, as presents for friends.

Muito brasileira

I have seen many Carioca women wear similar leather boots such as these.

 

Yesterday morning bus route #157 once again gave me the scenic experience, by way of Lagoa, Leblon and finally PUC. Today, thankfully, I finally decided to wait for buses #158 or #410. When I saw #158 I flagged it down. Compared to my first day, I now look like a pro. Or in other words, not as a foreigner. Recognizing major buildings has also helped. I no longer feel disoriented, at least not as much. I made it to the university with plenty of time to finish most of my homework assignments.

The other day I had to speak with Vanessa, the assistant coordinator for the program, about my appointment with the Brazilian Federal Police and Linda, the head coordinator, walked into the office and didn’t recognize me when she saw my profile. When she realized who I was she told me: “Você ‘tá muito brasileira.” It was a rainy chilly day and I was dressed as if I were living in the North Pole. An exaggeration, I agree, nevertheless, but I must admit that I was bundled up. Winter weather for Cariocas is major (and I agree) and many of my European peers find it quite hilarious. Of course I understand their reasoning but let me tell you why this weather is horrível: it’s chilly, rainy and to top it off, humid. The combination makes your bones ache. I am serious! Or maybe it’s just my body aging. 

I suggest, regardless what weather you are accustomed to, pack boots or nice warm shoes. There is no way that I can get away with wearing flip-flops with this recent Rio de Janeiro weather. To be honest, I have not worn flip flops yet when I am out and about. 

I saw a Carioca with rain boots. Her's were a forest green pair with conservative patterns. She was very chique.

 

Weather forecasters inform that this weather will continue well into the weekend. I have yet to go to the beach. That is, taking in some sun and enjoying the feel of the sand and the water. The days have not been sunny. Though, if you’re a surfer, this week has seen some spectacular waves. I was privy to those waves two days ago when I went to Ipanema after class. I was sitting towards the front of the ônibus and for about 2 blocks the driver took the avenue that parallels the beach. I was in awe, for a second I thought about how extraordinary it would be if I was a risk taking surfer. For a second.

The Brazilian bikini I bought from Francisco, a vendor in Leblon Beach.